Tuesday 15 January 2013

Big Boards Bigger Lungs.

Preparation for the North Shore isn't just like packing a bag and a few boards, I started preparing months ago, lots of running, swimming, paddling, sitting on the bottom of a pool, body surfing/free diving, press ups, chins and gyms etc etc...
Few weeks to go you start ordering new boards, and its so cheap and easy to get nearly new boards that are left by pros and others. But you've got to know when to surf the right board, like this morning you don't want to surf a 5'7" when its 6ft at rockies and gas chambers, in my head i would just slide in under the lip but in reality me and the lip were one.. 3 waves in a row!

All photos are mine reet!




No comments:

Post a Comment