After Xmas day brunch at the house we are staying in we went to have a look Waimea and it was huge! Saying I didn't want to surf we went back home. Mulling it over with some wise words from Gabe and loan of his 10ft gun I decided to walk back to the bay, not sure what i wanted to do. Sitting on the beach shitting myself Ty and Tatko turned up with some much needed encouragement. In two hours i got 3 of the biggest heaviest waves i have ever had!
Since then the surf has been solid, Waimea and big Sunset all week.
Xmas was biggest but took a proper dicking yesterday at Waimea made the drop on the a big one but it chased me down then took two more on the head. Class!
I think Ive aged 10 years this week but its been one of the best. sweet way to see the year out!
Trying to track a photog down for photos but here is some of mine and Tatko's for now.
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| Xmas day |
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| Telling me where to paddle out. |
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