Saturday, 20 February 2010

Off the lips and braking wrists.

Morocco ALL IMAGES COPYRIGHT JOHN MILLARD.

It started with a mix up in the driving down to London Gatwick and at the last min I had to drive my van, so there was Ben, Rob and me in my van so of course the talk was about politics, religion and deep intelligent conversation… or some 90mph facebooking and some horrible horrible patter as well, so when we got to Gatwick I wanted to washed my mouth and ears out with soap and water!

Day two. Arrived there, Got the cars, pulled up in the little town where

we were stopping and straight away there were people round the car hassling us. I was a bit taking aback, when we to the house it was amazing, balconies up stairs, French doors to the veranda, and our own path down to the beach, where we got some real good surfing later in the week. Served the tea wearing just a pinny that night, so for the rest of the week we got a Tagine cooked and served every night by Fatima just incase I did it again.

Day three. The first day mega fun surf some shory barrels then when the tide pushed a A-frame peak, loads of waves (when there wasn’t some wanka ozzie on them), Mick was rocking the outside ones. Stu was competing with the only other knee boarder in Africa!

Day four. It turned canny windy off shore beachy, I surfed like a chick but Ben had some little peaky bazzas and Rob was flying on a few. The three of us went for some lunch then decided to drive north to try find some waves. We didn’t find any surf but the antics on the drives were golden, I went to bathroom out of the car window while we were going 40mph! I would not recommend it at all, it was just

messy! Then on the way back there was a mental storm, Robs was loving it! I tried to redeem myself with a surf below the house that night.

Day five. The surf went shit so we just chilled out, a few of us already had morocco ass by then so we just sacked it off. But I went in the beach right below our house again.

Day six. The points just started to start breaking this day. Started by surfing famous wave Boilers, it was

over head and proper good, James had some bigger deeper one on his single fin thing but it worked, he was rocking on it. Ben and me took control of the point at mystics before it got a bit busier, but we got a few good one’s. Millard had a perfect peak with just him and one other lad on it so we all missed out there a bit. So Rob, Ben and me walked up and had our first surf at another famous wave called Anchor Point had some fun, I waited on the outside for 20mins for a big one then kooked it! We took a dive north and got this long right which broke off a pier, I had a little run in with a big local because I waited my turn and got a set wave…eh???

Day 7. This was looking like to be the best waves we had all week. In the morning we surfed a long right hand point but the rip was so bad we were fooked after 30mins so we got a few then sacked it off. We went and had a look at Anchors it was busy but I went in sat on the outside and picked off a few bigger ones while the boys soaked up some rays on the point. Then Rob and Ben wanted anther surf so I hopped in the car and went to rippy place from the morning, when we got there no one in, no rip and glassy as its gets! Perfect! We all had some epic waves, I saw Rob going about Mac 10 on one of them, Ben was on his forehand and he was flying round the sections, I had my best barrel of my trip (it did close out but I am still going to write about it!) it was one of the bigger ones, dropped in to it, saw the boys, so I stood straight up, gave them a little wave, then pumped it and pumped it, saw the section then just stood up straight and pulled in ,I travelled in it like a daemon before it closed out, I was gutted!! I know it don’t count if it closed out but a stand up straight bazza on my backhand… some of the longest waves of my life one wave then 20mins to paddle out sneaking little waves on the way back out, Morocco…best evers!!!

So it was a class trip some amazing waves and some shit patter.

Bobby, Ben, wellhard, James, Mick and Stu the bear thanks it was an amazing adventure.

15hours more of travelling I was back in barca drinking water, standard!


Went to Glasgow to watch singer songwriter Ben Howard, he was amazing.

Stayed in Edinburgh the next day and had a fun day there. good to catch up with some friends.

Keep looking for me writing about more closeouts.

Much love,

Sandy.

P.s. I wrote the last part of this with a fractured bone in my wrist! I tripped and fell off the top of a canny sizey wall trying to take a short cut down to the beach so I might be out for 6 weeks!! Fingers crossed I will heal faster and be able to get a waterproof cast!!!

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