waves!!!

Waves!!!

Well from the last blog it all changed very fast. It went from being flat, Too the best waves of my winter…so far.

 

It all started last week. We had a little warm up surf just in the beach so real fun 2-3 foot waves, the talk was for the next few day it was saying a solid swells good period and off shore winds for two days, but the beach didn’t seem to be getting any bigger by the time it was getting dark, so the next morn I got up at first light anyway, And it was like a pre xmas miracle!

Me, Richey Sills, Baha Rob (royal surfboards) and John Millard (who was taking photos) got the vans ready and hammered to try and go score some pits.

Went sideways round fair few hairy corners but finally got there. We watched one wave come in and knew it was on ran back to get ready. As we where getting changed one of the guys walked up with two half’s of his board and said “if you got any bigger boards boys get them waxed up, its heavy out there” so we grabbed the step ups and commenced.

We got down there, got in the water and every wave was just epic! Barrel city! Some real thick lips and shallow reef. Richey just made it look so easy! (Which it was for him after some of the tales of pipe line that he told me) it was just so intense when you could see a set coming in it was solid 6ft (proper 6ft non of this pussy 6ft!!!), slabby as though! I had some of my best waves of…!?!

 

The next day it was a little bit smaller so we didn’t risk it. We went  somewhere we knew it would be  bigger than everywhere else. It was Me, Richey and Jimmy got there it was quiet and some real good long hollow waves coming thru.

 

I was just paddling out when the set came thru and all I heard was “go sandy go go go!!” didn’t know where I was but went for it I got pitched from the top to the bottom hit the reef straight away then got the rest of the set on my melon! wasn’t the best start like. But then had some air drops some hacks and the deepest! Pit of my life (still gutted bout it kookish error and got stage fright when I came out)

 

Have a look at the photos which I am going to put up from John Millard.

  www.johnmillardphotography.com

 

So it was an epic two days, plenty more in the New Year hopefully.

 

There were some messy antics, as well over Xmas thanks to a sailor called jerry and a boy called will!!! But real good times.

 

Get that left over turkey down your windpipe and have a happy new yeah!

 

 

Sandy

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